- Use DaHai's configuration video for starters.
- Upgrade the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9. I ended up using 1.1.9.1 as of this writing.
- Use DaHai's files and modify them to work with stock Steppers. Use Arduino IDE to load the firware after replacing Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h (which I did not make changes to). Here are the changes I made to his Configuration.h:
- Line 624-626: Change these from his upgraded TMC2130_STANDALONE to stock A4988
- Line 705: I got crazy loud stuttering when first descending to the bed during a print. Lower this to get rid of that.
- Line 868: I and several people online have measured and gotten good resulting prints with the Type 2 Probe Offset at -15.88
- Line 938 to 940: These need to be true for stock steppers. DaHai's steppers did not need to be inverted.
- Line 1358-1364: Define your temperature presets. I have used PETG to great success with a preheat of 70C for the bed and 230C for the hotend. This rises to print at 80C and 245C respectively during the print.
- When following the leveling instructions, the video shows a "Set Delta Height" option that is absent in the version of the firmware I loaded. This caused me no end of headaches later when the method of subtracting the bed distance from both the Z-Height and Probe Offset produced weird math and never worked properly. Instead, I ran auto-calibration, saved the settings, then:
- Noted my Z after going to Prepare -> Auto Home
- Brought the nozzle to the bed using Prepare -> Move Axis -> Move Z until a business card wouldn't move when squished between the axis and the bed. I then noted the height
- Changed my Z height only by this amount by subtracting the number from the Z height, and a negative Z Height is thus added.
- Saved and Auto Homed
- Set my Probe Offset to 15.88 per recommendations online.
- Checked it again and only touched the Z Height when it was off. Repeat the Z height move if this is still not right.
- With the printer calibrated, it was time to print. I just used Cura because I couldn not get Slic3r or Pronterface to work easily. Cura does not have the Kossel in it by default, but it can be easily added. JDHarris on Thingiverse even shared the configuration file they made which can be picked up by Cura after a restart.
- I printed with PETG which has a high temp but no fumes. I found hairspray for adhesion worked best thanks to several awesome tips by people connected with the PDX hacker community. Thanks all!
After this, it just worked and keeps working. It's magical what a little math and open source firmware will do. That being said, it's my first printer. It is bound to break in ways I can't even imagine now. First order of business? Print things that make the printer better, as is tradition.
Update: Not all is well in Whoville. I've developed some Heat Creep with this PETG printing at 245C, and I haven't had the time to troubleshoot it. Wish me luck!
