Tools Needed
- Wrench to remove blade
- Dial Indicator
- Ruler
- Vacuum
- Compressor
- Dry Lubricant
- Top Cleaner
- Scouring Pad
- Top Wax (Paste Wax)
- Emery cloth
- Center punch and hammer\
Steps
- UNPLUG SAW
- Blow out the motor
- Clean out the inside of the saw. You’ll thank me later.
- Check the stability of the stand and any table extensions. Tighten or replace
- Arbor: Sideways movement (Bearings)
- Arbor: Rotate and check with Dial Indicator
- Arbor Washer: burrs, bends, blemishes
- Blade: Good fit on Arbor, hole is centered, doesn’t wobble
- Pulley and Belt: High Spots, fraying, worn spots, cuts, cracks
- Plug in saw
- Belt while saw is on: Doesn’t climb the pulleys, straight travel
- UNPLUG SAW
- If Belt Replacement suggested, Segmented belt?
- Pulleys: Aligned on center? Ruler runs between?
- Pulleys: If cast, is the hole drilled on center?
- Square the fence to the table
- Square the blade to the table using the fence:
- Raise the blade
- Move the fence to the blade: Front and back blade tips should touch
- If not, loosen trunnions underneath table
- Move blade into alignment
- Clamp blade between fence and some wood
- Apply loctite and tighten trunnions
- While underneath table, clean out worm gears of blade elevator and pitch or angle set
- Lubricate worm gears with dry grease
- Tune Mitre Gauge:
- Polish down tight spots with emery cloth
- Dimple the guide bar with a center punch to solve loose spots
- Clean the top to remove paint, stains and finishes
- Apply a paste wax to the top and leave overnight
- Clean the blade with a specialty blade cleaner to remove pitch and other residue.
Repeat Regularly
- Clean blade
- Blow out motor
- Wax the top
- Check for vibration
Distilled from a doc that mentions http://thesawshop.com/
