Dan Learns Stuff

Tuesday, January 14, 2025

GE Opal Rebuild Saga - Fix Leaking, Screeching, Scaling, and More!

I obtained a GE Opal Profile 1.0 Nugget Ice Machine on OfferUp. It was a package deal that included an all-in-one coffee machine. Two $400 machines for $50 was too good to pass up. After filling and rinsing, I found out why they wanted to be rid of it: it sounded like a wailing banshee! There was also a grinding noise. And it leaked. What had I gotten myself into?

I’m hoping what I learned will help you keep yours running too. Be sure to reach out if you have any questions or comments: dan@danlearnsstuff.com

Models

The pictures in this thread refer to what is colloquially known as Opal 1.0. It is listed on the back as OPAL01GEPSS. It has a 9-hole Cap where the ice exits the auger channel.

A 2.0 model has a broadly similar construction and disassembly procedure, but it may require different tools and parts than what is listed here.

Problems

Below are the types of issues that I have personally fixed on my machine:

Have a fast leak? If it can’t hold water at all, replacing the auger seal will stop the worst leaks.
Does it screech or whine after water has begun to freeze? Replacing the bottom seal will help this.
Does it screech or whine immediately after starting, but it goes away once it gets cold? Replacing the upper auger bushing will help.
Have white particles in your ice? Do you use tap or filtered water? Descaling will help. Switching to distilled or Reverse Osmosis water will extend the life of your machine greatly.
Have black particles or sludge that are not mold? Replacing the upper auger bushing will help too.
Have black particles that may be mold? A chlorine wash will help.

This page captures images and step by step directions for fixing the above auger-related issues. They are mostly centered within the auger chamber itself, but disassembly instructions can help you diagnose and treat a variety of problems. There are other tutorials online that can help you swap the drain lines and diagnose fan and pump problems that are separate from auger wear and tear.

Parts

Throughout this guide, I refer to replaceable parts that can wear down over time and can be replaced using various sources online. Most commodity parts and supplies can be found on Amazon. Some were specially engineered for this machine, and the community has people that are machining replacements you can purchase to keep our babies running well past their original lifetimes.

Disassembly for Auger Maintenance

Getting into the auger is a bit more difficult than the water pump and other areas. You'll need the following tools:

Phillips head screwdriver (with long shaft for deeply inset screws)
Electric screwdriver with phillips head bit for lots of tiny screws
Spudger or pry-tool
10mm deep socket with extension

To help clean out the auger shaft and reseat auger seals, you may also need:

Long flat-head screwdriver
Large and long socket extension tool
Long hooked pick or long and narrow needle-nose pliers

Start by UNPLUGGING THE UNIT. I cannot stress this enough. Make sure it is not plugged in before starting!

Then, drain the unit completely. No water should remain.

You can now begin to tear into the unit by removing the top lid. 4 screws hide under rubber caps. A spudger or sharp steak knife can help remove them. Beware: If they hit the counter, they will bounce everywhere.

Disconnect the wi-fi card cable that hides right under the lid.

Remove all screws from the back panel. Move the drain hoses off the panel, and set the entire panel aside.

Remove the screws from the side panels. This is to expose the screws holding the upper tank to the chassis, and to give you more room to maneuver things. You don’t need to completely remove the surround from the chassis! Just shift it up and out of the groove in the base. Careful! It’s got sharp edges!

Unscrew the upper tank from the chassis.

Unscrew the other two interior screws for the upper tank, pictured here.

This transparent cap is held on by 3 screws and weather-stripping-like insulated moulding. Carefully remove the moulding and unscrew the cap.

Having unscrewed the upper water tank in a previous step, shift it off the black chute. It doesn’t have to move very far.

Unscrew the black chute. You will need a skinny long handled Phillips. The screws may be rusty, so be careful they don’t get stripped. There are two inside screws at the tail of the chute as well.

After the black chute is removed, this styrofoam cap can be removed as well. Carefully wiggle it free. To free up space, you can move the water tank farther away. It might also help to unplug the connectors for the front panel and fullness sensor (black and white, squeeze to separate). Remember to reconnect them!

You have successfully revealed the auger body! A 10mm socket will remove the 4 cap screws. As you loosen them, the cap may spring up. They keep tension on the seal spring.

The auger cap will pull straight up revealing the auger chamber. You can see the white bushing nestled inside the cap.

Using a cloth to help get purchase on the auger shaft, lift the auger straight up and out. It should come up with the spring part of the seal.

And now you can see directly to the bottom of the auger chamber. The seal rests on the bottom between the metal body and the ceramic ring/bushing. NOTE: This picture shows the auger seal seated incorrectly!

Congratulations! You have disassembled your ice maker.

General Maintenance: Descale and Sanitize

If you don't use distilled water or that from a reverse osmosis unit, descaling monthly will keep your unit in tip-top shape.

Clean-out and Regrease

While you have it open, take a moment to check other parts that can get gunked up.

If your machine is whining, the auger is being eroded and scraped off in the chamber. This can lead the upper and lower tanks getting a dark sediment. Wipe it out and rinse.
Check the lines for white sediment. The descaling process can knock these loose, but the pump won’t be able to move it into the tank. You can detach and rinse these pipes as well.
If you have lots of scale, it may be faster to chip it off with a brass tool. Just don’t scratch the surface of your parts by using anything harder than that.
Vacuum off fans and grilles to keep your cooling system in top shape.
Look for leaks and calcium deposits. These are harbingers of bigger problems.

Replace the Auger Seal

A grinding that goes away until the machine cools down or fast leaks from below the chamber through the gear case are most likely due to a bad seal at the bottom of the auger. This multi-part pump seal keeps water in the chamber, and it has rubber, ceramic, and metal parts. It is way over-built for this application, but you need to handle the parts carefully. Order matters, and cleanliness matters.

The ceramic ring sits within the round rubber seal. The other half is a metal seat, spring, and rubber seal. The seat fits on the auger shaft against the helix. The rubber seal on the spring fits against the ceramic ring when properly fit into the chamber. The ceramic is sensitive to oils on your skin. It can degrade faster and affect the seals. Clean it with isopropyl alcohol if you touch it. The rubber seals can use a tiny bit of H1 food-safe grease to help seat them properly.

To replace the pump seal, pull the auger and then use a dental scraper or hooked tool to remove the bottom seal and ceramic ring. Seat the new sitting seal on the auger with the rubber towards the socket.

It can be difficult to seat the new bottom seal in the bottom of the chamber without touching the ceramic. Slip it around a long screwdriver or socket extension, sit the tip of the tool onto the crank, and drop the seal into place. Clean off the tool and press the ceramic down into the crank cavity. If this doesn’t seat well, it will leak immediately and vigorously once you seal it back up. Note: The picture below is wrong! The seal is on the wrong side from the ring! If you have better pictures, please send them my way.

When you reset the auger, ensure the spring is not stuck in its compressed state. It will have some bounce when you put the cap back on.

Replace the Bushing

Is there an unholy banshee haunting your machine? The tell-tale wail is probably the bushing at the top of the auger. It keeps the auger centered in the chamber, but it wears down over time. This leaves the auger to scrape against the sides of the chamber. This causes black sludge and a gradually eroded auger.

eBay seller gweedoh machines his own new bushings from material that it’s much stronger than the stock ones. But from him and buy for life. You can see the size of the worn out bushings versus a new one below.

Each one comes pre-coated with food safe H1 grease as well.

Just pop the old one out and the new one in. The wailing is gone!

Note: I’ve included affiliate links to parts and products that helped me get my machine back in working order.

Friday, November 1, 2024

Horizontal Cordless Blinds - Fix Broken Spring Cord

Update: This broke a week later. The cartridge won’t hold tension. I suggest rethreading to mod it into a corded blind. There are more than a few tutorials on how to do that out on the interwebs already.

My advice: just don’t. That’s right. I did it. I fixed my Home Depot Cordless Blinds, and I saved $45 doing so, but I wouldn’t recommend doing it again. I got so frustrated and it took so long that I forgot to take instructional pictures. And I love to take that kind of stuff. If the blinds no longer retract at all, it’s because all three cords have been severed. And if the fact that it happens all the time hasn’t lead you to seek alternative blinds, you might be able to repair them, but I wouldn’t recommend it.

If you’re still determined to do so, you need to:

Pull the blind from the window completely.
Pull out the cassette with springs and spools.
Wind on three new cables onto the spools.
Thread them back through all the other pulleys, obstacles, and slats.
Replace them in the window.

Pulling the blinds from the window when they won’t retract is a pain in your arse. You’ll probably need a helper and a flat-head screwdriver to pry them loose from the bracket. The slats, which are no longer retained by means of a central cord, will try to fall out everywhere. Be careful, our use this opportunity to throw them away completely. You can still do that.

Obtaining cord is a pain. You should grab the 1-2mm kind, but it only comes in 100 yard spools from Amazon. Pull the cassette with razor sharp springs and a baffling spool-and-gear mechanism from underneath the tilt cams by unseating the cams along the whole length of the blinds. Remove the retaining clips (don’t lose them!). Clean out the busted cord from the slats, blind body, and all pulleys. Examine the cassette, and reseat the spring if it’s come loose. Which it will if you play with the mechanism for more than two seconds trying to understand how it works.

The cassette winding was the part that broke me. Play with the spools and you’ll see there are 4 in total. They counter-rotate. Without any tension on the spools, the spring is fully retracted on one spool and hooks into a cleat on the other. Play with the two thread spools, and you’ll find a slot where you can thread your cord. You’re ready to wind.

Measure out two cords, one at least 18ft long, one 9ft. Make a knot in the center of the long one and a figure 8 on a bight on the short one. With no tension on the spools, thread the center knot into the spool slot of the outside spool, and slip the bight into the slot of the inside spool. This was the biggest pain: Wind the cords around the spools, keeping your 3 dainty cords consistently on the same side of the spool, around spools within the cassette. I did this by using a blunt tapestry needle and a long and sharp upholstery needle. Avoid tangles, twists, and misthreading. You’ll know your winding properly when you pull both cables and the they both come off at the same rate. Then they should retract neatly as you let go. I have not tried this, you might be able to thread one side, pull it out, then just slip the other side on and wind it back as you retract the other. Leave enough leader cord out the run it from the cassette, through the body of the blinds, and down through every slat. More is always better. You can trim excess once you’re done. This would have been better with pictures. When it breaks again, I’ll add some.

Once you have wound the spools, thread the remaining cord onto the tiny pulleys in the cassette. They should all end up on the same side, the front of the main body where the tilt mechanism comes out to attach to the wand. Then pass them through the gaps in the cam supports in the main body, around the wide pulleys and back across the metal corner posts and down the pulleys which lead down to the slats. Thread each of the three cables through every slat and down through the main bottom body. Tie off the cord with a big knot, a button, or some other means of making sure it doesn’t just pull out and unthread all your hard work. Learn from me! With each cable pulled taught and knotted, you’re ready to test.

Even if you do everything right, your test could end in disaster and you might need to start over. Don’t! Just give up! Even if you do it right, it could end up tangled in a month. It could wear out just as fast. Because this design is heinous, prone to failure, and predispositioned to these kinds of shenanigans. Turn back now!

Thought I haven’t done it myself, I would recommend the truly frustrated and also thrifty find a tutorial on how to add cords back to your cordless blinds by forgoing the silly mechanism of the cassette and spring and just attaching a cleat to the wall to hold the tension. If you can make sure the strangulation risks are minimal in your house, it’s a way to fix them without replacing the blinds themselves.

Friday, August 16, 2024

Fix Always-on Defrost + Floor for Ford/Lincoln/Mercury EATC Climate Control

So there we were: driving from Portland to San Diego, car full of apartment supplies and heading into the desert south of Eugene, OR on a 95F/35C day. When we hit the first hill, the AC makes a sound and switches from Max to Defrost and looses all efficiency. Ugh.

I had a hell of a time getting the air conditioning on my 2000s Mercury Grand Marquis to blow anything but Defrost/Floor. It started with family smelling exhaust when it was on Max AC/Recirculate. Then it would switch to Defrost when going uphill. Finally, it stopped sending air through anything by the top vent/floor. Turns out the vacuum-actuated doors run through the notoriously leaky EATC HVAC Control Head. The troubleshooting advice below should apply equally to any vacuum system Ford/Lincoln/Mercury AC units.

Initial Troubleshooting - O-Rings

If you're here, you have probably seen the archived MercuryMarauder.net thread with tons of advice, pictures, and fixes to help you get started. The best fix to start with is to swap out the o-rings inside the solenoids. The fix is a few dollars (007 O-Rings from any Ace should work, or get the silicone ones from eBay from sellers that have them specifically labeled for this fix). It can be done in an hour with the proper tools, and there are a ton of YouTube videos detailing the fix.

007 O Rings at Ace hardware

Next Step - Leaking Valve Body

Sometimes, the o-ring fix doesn't work. Farther down the thread, fastblackmerc details how to fix a leaky valve body -- the part that connects the hoses to the solenoids:

Disassemble the EATC Head. Take off the solenoids completely so it is just black plastic.
Plug the solenoid tubes with 5/8" vac caps (made mine out of kinked tubes)
Plug the vac hose tubes with 1/8" vac caps (connected these to each other, see below)
Check to see if the body is holding pressure: Hook a length of spare tube up to one of the tubes and blow with your mouth. If it's not holding pressure, you will hear a hissing from the tubes or body.
Check where the leaks are coming from: Submerse the entire valve body in water and blow again. You'll see bubbles rising from the micro-cracks letting out the air.
Dry off the valve body and cover/fill up cracks with 2-part epoxy. You can also use the same tube you used to blow in air to subject the valve body to a vacuum and draw the epoxy into the cracks. Careful! Don't get too aggressive with this or you might plug the pathways for vacuum.
Wait for the epoxy to cure and repeat the check for cracks/fill steps until the valve body is no longer leaking.

For me, I took his advice and it still didn't work. I had leaks elsewhere. But it might work for you.

Valve Body with all it's holes plugged

Desperation Move - Bypass Valve Body

If the fixes to the valve body are still not working, you might needs to bypass the head completely. This can be done as easily as hard-wiring 1/8" vacuum tubing to the two mixer doors that control air flow. Or you can follow a simple extra step to ensure you can restore Defrost as needed.

I followed Victor's video about the bypass. He gets under the dash (two plastic panel shield retainers hold it to a metal bracket) and is able to access the vacuum coupling behind the EATC Head. 1/8 hose and T connectors from AutoZone helped me get the bypass and Recirculate working just like him.

To take it a step further, I bought a 1/4 sprinkler valve from Lowes and patched it in with an additional T. Now I can turn the valve to open on cold mornings, let the vacuum out, and get Defrost/Floor when I want. I left the hose extra long and ran it up into the glove box. Easy access but still hidden.

Bodge under the dash for Recirculate

Valve that an be opened at will for turning on Defrost/Floor

Side Step - Check that the Door Actuators Still Work

If this isn't your first crack at the fix, you might want to make sure the door actuators are actually working. If the issue started occurring for you gradually, and all mix doors won’t respond, this is unlikely to be your problem. However, it can help to rule out all possible causes if it is driving you crazy.

To do this, you will need to access the vacuum lines (detailed above) and a length of vacuum hose and some fittings to get a good seal. You can either create your own vacuum with a hand-pump of the type used to bleed brakes, or pipe the existing vacuum main line from one line to each outlet and listen for the doors as they actuate beneath the dash. An extreme solution is pictured below. Using sprinkler fittings, I bodged together a 4-way plug to make sure I was getting Recirculate mode activated.

The hand pump vacuum is holding pressure. The EATC is probably at fault.

Tuesday, July 16, 2024

Troubleshooting SNS to S3 Via Kinesis Firehose

Here are some troubleshooting tips for ensuring AWS SNS messages get to S3.

First create your Firehose using Direct PUT. Select your S3 bucket and configure prefixes and other options so you can identify your records within the bucket.
Test your firehose can get messages into S3. There is a button right on the AWS console to do this. For default prefixes, you’ll see in your bucket keys for /YYYY/MM/DD/HH with new files bundling several messages by timestamp. Note: this may take up to five minutes to show up if you didn’t play with the buffer settings!
If your messages aren’t arriving, check that the bucket can receive messages from Firehose. You might also take toss time to configure the lifetime of objects in the bucket. If they’re logs or things with a defined useful lifetime, you might want to set a retention period to clear them out, move them to Glacier, etc.
Once you’ve got messages flowing, you should be able to create your SNS subscription to your Firehose now. You’ll need an IAM Role with Trust to SNS and Firehose access. The built-in policy for this is great for testing purposes, but pare access down using a custom policy before going live. Once again, you might have to wait up to five minutes if you didn’t play with the buffer amount to get them to transfer immediately.
If logs still aren’t arriving, check your SNS message log failures. You can do this by editing the Topic and configuring a role that has CloudWatch access (for writing to CloudWatch logs). Then look for the sns/region/account/Failure key in CW and check for errors in the logging json.
As an example, I selected a Kinesis Data Stream instead of Direct PUT when setting up the firehose. My SNS messages failed to send, but I could push things to S3 using the test button in the Kinesis console. My SNS failures showed up in the CW logs as “400 This operation is not permitted on KinesisStreamAsSource delivery stream type”. This might not be your exact error, but the failure logs will illuminate other errors too.

I’m just getting started with Firehouse. But these troubleshooting steps helped me configure an SNS to S3 pipeline without building my own lambda or running something else like Logstash.

Wednesday, May 29, 2024

Questing Imperial Fist, a Black Templar Emperor's Champion

I'm pleased with everything about this model. The black highlights sell the shiny armor, and the whites are creamy without being dull. A non-metal metal blade doesn't feel too out of place witht he gold highlights, and my freehand Imperial Fists tilt shield introduces some complementary colors to the purple beads. The eye lenses and a trace of OSL from the lantern give it a glow without making it gratuitous. The fact that I acquired it as a part of a cheap Craigslist lot makes it even better. It was practically free. A++. Would Hobby Again.

Saturday, May 25, 2024

Cyberpunk RED - Rockerboys

Cyberpunk RED miniatures from the Rockerboys faction. Tried to evoke lots of 80's Vaporwave and retro-future Miami Vice with the color choices. The Manager has some of the most effortlessly awesome eyes I've ever done, and the skin and hair on the Guitarist just glows. The assembly was kind of a pain being resin, and you might notice some mistakes if you look too closely as these are tiny tiny minis. But I enjoyed it more than I thought I would. Hopefully, I get to paint more if they keep doing that system.

Manager

Guitarist

Keytarist

Nolzur's Marvelous Minis - Palette Cleansers

I call these small projects Palette Cleansers because I paint them in between other big projects like whole army units or big figures and terrain. The Nolzur Minis by Wizkids are cheap, already assembled and primed. They can be frustrating with mold lines, but they are decent enough at 3 ft. These usually come in two sculpts per pack. I picked one and surplused the other for trades or teaching others how to paint.